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Some of you have asked how I simulate the aluminum finish on some of my scale aircraft. Since the 1980's I've been experimenting with types of Metalized Polyester(MP) tape. 3M and others manufacture it mostly for silk screening, and slide masking. It also can be used as I've found on model aircraft.

Well let me give you some of the advantages. Unlike heat shrink coverings this will not bubble or loosen over time. I've had it on one airplane for over 12 years and it really looks as good as the day I put it on. It is much stronger than plastic films. It is easily repaired. Applying the tape is a fairly fast process and it can also be painted. The tape is impervious to Gasoline, Methyl Ethyl Ketone(MEK) and most other thinners. It is lighter in weight than most paints. It is about 2 mils thick and is non-conductive. Mixing and matching different types of materials such as aluminum tape, paint and MP tape can create a very realistic finish.

Disadvantages. Well, the biggest disadvantage is the limited ability of the tape to conform to compound curves. A bit of heat helps but if the curves are too sharp you may need to cut the tape or come up with a different method of metal covering simulation to achieve a satisfactory result. MP tape is for covering solid surfaces not open bays.

Prepare the model the same way you would for paint. I usually cover the model with a 3/4 oz. glass cloth and a laminating epoxy although polyester resin can be used also. I use an acrylic auto primer after the model has been sanded. Instead of spraying on the primer try using a short nap small paint roller. Seems to be a very fast process with no overspray. Sand and fill till your satisfied. Remember, too much sanding is never enough. Once satisfied, wash and wipe down the model so that it is as close to clean as possible. You should now be ready to apply the tape. I use a squared sheet of metal as a cutting board. Since the tape has an aggressive adhesive on one side put that side to the cutting board and unroll a length. Cut into the desired panels. Buff with Scotch-brite if you want that abused aluminum look instead of a mirror finish. Make sure you have removed all particles from that process and the aircraft lest you should have contamination under the tape after it is applied. Now, raise an edge of the panel with a Xacto knife and peal it off the cutting board. Place the panel on the desired spot on the model and press from the middle of the panel to the outside to keep air entrapment to a minimum. You might also want to keep a covering iron on a high setting while your working as it can be helpful on minor compound curves. Again work from the inside out. Don't worry if you screw up a panel just peel it off and reset or toss it out.

After your finished applying the panels you might want to try simulating rivets by using r/c 56 glue for raised rivets. In the case of flush rivets the hot tip of a wood burning tool shaped like a rivet works very well although it takes too much time for me. Instead I came up with a "dritz wheel" like tool with brass tubing spokes which does an acceptable job of making rivets fast.

If you want to experiment with this material it can be found in manufacturers directories under specialty tapes. Look for 3M #850 or equivalent. One company Specialty Tapes uses the part number #298 Silver metallic tape in their catalog. Don't be afraid to shop around. There are others. Good luck!